notes from the road

We took an overnight train from Florence and woke up in Munich this morning.

Now that I've taken some time off work, it's strange shifting my focus to set out and explore. I've been to Munich before but don't remember it well. We've been setting off in whichever direction seems right and enjoying the things we find along the way.

Photos from a Florence photo booth. My favorite souvenir to date.

italia

I almost can't believe I'm back.

I've been working in Florence for the past couple of days and am so happy, so lucky, so blessed to call this city one of my homes. The best part? Already knowing the streets. Or visiting my favorite gelateria every day for the past three days (whoops). Or speaking (broken) Italian. Or having dinner with my host parents. Or showing David my favorites spots. Or introducing David to my host parents.

Everything is the best part.

florence in film

I wish I used film more. Rhianne is a friend I really admire because she's so dedicated to film that she'll pack multiple film cameras with her for one trip-- just so she has each camera on hand when the moment calls for it.

This batch of film wasn't supposed to turn out. I had just crossed the Ponte Vecchio and somehow, for no reason whatsoever, I dropped my precious little yellow holga onto the cobblestone street. Its back popped open, exposing my film to the midday sun and I thought, "surely this whole roll of film is ruined." (Actually, I thought a whole string of expletives but I'll keep those to myself).

And then these turned up! What a miracle. This is what I love the most about film. You can't check your photos immediately after taking them-- and in my case, it takes me so long to develop a roll that I completely forget what I'd originally shot. And when something turns up-- it's the best feeling.

Every camera snap is a flutter of hope. A wish and a prayer that what you see will be captured the way you want it, in one of the most beautiful mediums on the planet.

PS - My shameless loves are over at Molly's today! (They're embarrassing but I embrace them).

florence at night

It was different than the first time. The streets were filled with hand-holding lovers, the air was warm, and there was a hushed buzz throughout the city center.










Everything just glowed.

I remember thinking how much I'd miss it. The narrow streets, the uneven cobblestone, peeks of the Duomo, the infinitely tall buildings. I think that once streets become familiar, you've found a new home.

the hidden terrace

I had no idea that my host parents had a terrace during my 2+ months studying in Florence. We never ate in it because it was always so cold in the winter-- I only discovered it the following summer, when I came back for a weekend visit.


It's one of the most beautiful, homey, and special places to me. This time, when I came back to Florence this August, we ate almost every meal outside, under the grape vines and on checkered table cloths.




But the best part was being with my host family and enjoying the best home-cooked meals from Maibritt (mozzarella salad, panzanella, dessert wine, and tiramisu pictured here). They brought me back to my happy months as a student in Italy, and made me feel even luckier to have a family like this.

eating out in florence

Laura: "How do you feel being back?"
Me: "It's weird. It's so hot (I was here in the winter) but it's so nice. I love that I know the streets so well.
Laura: "Ohhh yes it gets reaaally hot!! I guess less clothes more gelato!"

In Florence I drank the first cappuccino that I've ever enjoyed, ate my favorite fresh mozzarella, and averaged a gelato per day.




I discovered my new favorite summertime drink: granita. It reminded me of 7-11 slurpees with better flavors and minus the blue food coloring. It was perfect in the Florence heat.




I could dedicate an entire week's worth of posts to gelato but I'll hold back. Stracciatella is a really simple flavor (basically vanilla with little chocolate bits) but I missed being able to have some whenever I wanted. I'm pretty positive that it's impossible to go wrong with gelato at all, but I hold a special place in my heart for stracciatella.

One might even call it a love affair (sorry, David).

It almost pains me to talk about food in Florence without mentioning all of the amazing home cooking I had with my host parents-- but that's for another post!

window-shopping in florence

Florence is home to some of the most beautiful storefronts I've seen: they're colorful, decadent, and it's easy to lose track of time just window-shopping. It's how I found my discounted Hunters, my favorite gelateria, and my favorite stationary in the entire world. (I may have brought home one too many sheets...)


I'm usually weary of the San Lorenzo market since I'm still working on my haggling skills-- but the colorful leather and scarves throughout the market are really lovely. If you go, never settle for the listed price. I'm usually shy about doing this in Italian but it's how I bought myself a leather belt and green wallet for my mom for 25 euro altogether.


Perhaps the most decadent of all decadent shop displays are those on the Ponte Vecchio-- the oldest bridge in Europe. The bridge used to be lined with butchers until Medicis wanted to make the bridge more prestigious-- then they prohibited butcher shops and goldsmiths took their places.

Now it's got beautiful (and super expensive) jewelry in each of its windows. Most people admire the gold and jewels, but the coral and cameo jewelry are my favorites. The coral is just simple and classic, while the cameos are elegant and remind me of my Classics major.

Going back and finding my own little treasure from the Ponte Vecchio is the newest addition to my list.

a wanderlust guide (to florence, italy)

This is the official start of a new little series called "Wanderlust Guides." They are by no means comprehensive or a proclamation to have the very best of ____ city. Instead, they're my favorites of wherever I go-- places I enjoyed, and places I hope you'll enjoy, too.

I adore Florence. It's my home away from home. It was my most pleasant surprise during my seven months abroad. There are also thousands of guides that'll tell you what to do and where to go:

The Uffizi (cool, but tiring)
The Academia (Il Davide alone is worth it)
The Ponte Vecchio (really, really crowded but really, really charming)

The list goes on and on. Even after you've spent hours in museums (half of which you were admiring The David), climbed Brunelleschi's Dome and rubbed the boar's nose at the Mercato Porcellino, you'd still need several days to enjoy Florence in all of its Renaissance glory. This little guide is for the traveler who wants to experience the simple pleasures in Florence. From the most breathtaking views to the most satisfying gelato, these are my favorite Florentine gems:

The Perfect Panini
via Giuseppe Verdi, 36r (Santa Croce neighborhood)
Take a trip to Salumeria Verdi, affectionately nicknamed Pino's in honor of the salumeria's owner. Although the deli offers home-cooked pasta and a multitude of Tuscan wine, I go here for my lunchtime panini. The fresh vegetables and the perfectly cured meats are a match made in heaven. Try the finocchiona with fresh mozzarella, or ask Pino for "The Best." He'll know what you mean. (from €3.50/ panini)

A Picnic in the Boboli Gardens
Palazzo Pitti
Weather permitting, you can take your panini from Pino's da porta via (to go) and have a little picnic in the Boboli Gardens. They're gigantic, but they're calming and there's a ton of space to lounge at your leisure. Bring a book, pack some snacks and find your own little spot. It's a wonderful way to "escape the city" without actually ever leaving it.

Florence's Best Kept Secret
via Dei Neri, 22 (Santa Croce neighborhood)
No trip to Florence would be complete without at stop at Gelateria dei Neri-- most tourists just don't know it. Although places like Vivoli and the overpriced shops around the Ponte Vecchio seem like good bets, dei Neri offers a wide, flavorful variety without charging the big bucks. Flavors like mango and frutti di bosco are refreshing on sunny days, but stracciatella and cookies and cream are classic year round. (from €1.65/ 2 flavors in an overfilled cup).

The Postcard View
Piazzale Michelangelo
Move away from the city center and take a short hike up to Piazzale Michelangelo for breathtaking panoramic views of the city. From here you can snap the Ponte Vecchio, the Palazzo Vecchio tower and Brunelleschi's Dome all in one picture.

For the Photography Lover
Largo Fratelli Alinari, 15 (Santa Maria Novella neighborhood)
The Alinari Museum is home to some of Europe's oldest photographs. This museum integrates the history of photography with the art itself: not only will you find some of the oldest camera models, you'll also find the most beautiful photos taken by those cameras. A true testament to how far the art and science of photography has come.

A Pharmacy from 1221
via della Scala, 16 (Santa Maria Novella neighborhood)
Literally a stone's through from the Santa Maria Novella church, the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella used to serve as an apothecary run by monks in 1221. Today the pharmacy is more of a perfumery and herbal shop. Even if you don't plan on buying anything, it's worth it just to walk in and admire the classic frescos, elaborate decor and sample the perfumes.

A Multi-Course Deal
via Palazzuolo, 71 (Santa Maria Novella neighborhood)
Begin you evening with an authentic Italian dinner at Trattoria il Contadino. The menu at this family owned restaurant changes daily and revolves around what's in season. The prix fixe of €12 includes bottled water, a primo (pasta, rice, etc) and a secondo (the main course). And, if you're really up for it, you can take a stroll back to the Gelateria dei Neri to truly end the meal the right way.

*A special thanks to Pugly Pixel for the photo template and the mailing tag!

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